Journal : Global Times (Chinese) Date : Author : Yu Tong, special correspondent, Global Times Page No. : 9
URL : NA

在印度拉贾斯坦走“好色”之旅

New Picture (15)

 

【环球时报特约记者  宇同】许多去过印度旅游的朋友都为其绚烂丰富的色彩而迷醉。尤其是印度西北部的拉贾斯坦邦。塔尔沙漠覆盖了该邦的大部分土地,本应单调荒凉的沙漠地带却因几座多彩城市点缀其间而变得充满灵气,成为印度知名的旅游目的地。“粉色之城”斋普尔、“蓝色之城”焦特布尔、“白色之城”乌代普尔、“金色之城”杰斯梅尔,4个主要城市个个都有鲜明的主体色调,一圈儿转下来,堪称一趟“好色”之旅。

[Global Times special correspondent Yu Tong] Many tourist friends who have been to India, have been fascinated and intoxicated by its rich and splendid colors; especially those of north western India’s Rajasthan state. The Thar Desert covers most of the land of this state; what should have been a monotonic, bleak and desolate desert has however become one of India’s most renowned tourist destinations. This is because of the desert being embellished with a few colorful cities that change it to a place full of aura. Jaipur, the “City of Pink”; Jodhpur,  the “City of Blue”; Udaipur, “City of White”; Jaisalmer, “City of Golden color”; four major cities – each one with a distinctive body color. A round trip covering them could be called a tour of “beautiful colors”.

徜徉在色彩的海洋 An unhurried stroll in the colors of the ocean

斋普尔是拉贾斯坦邦首府,是印度旅游“黄金三角”(新德里、阿格拉、斋普尔)之一。斋普尔这座城市是粉色的,风之宫殿、琥珀堡、古天文台……放眼望去,不论是它的民居还是红砂岩建造的宫殿和城墙,粉红色都是其主色调。在一片粉色建筑中,当地妇女似乎也更加钟爱粉红色的纱丽,街市上不时有粉色的倩影走过,给这座城市增添了一抹浪漫的气息。

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan state and is one of the corners of the “Golden Triangle” (New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur being the three corners) of Indian travel. Jaipur city is pink in color and includes attractions like the palace of the wind (Hawa mahal), Amber Fort and the ancient observatory. Looking out, regardless of whether it is a building housing people or a palace building with walls made of red sand stone, pink is the main color everywhere. In a pink building, local women seem to look more beloved in pink saris. Pink shadows cross the street from time to time and add a touch of romance to the city.

焦特布尔是蓝色的,从城北地势奇绝险要的梅兰加尔古堡俯瞰焦特布尔的老城区,高高低低、挨挨挤挤的民居铺陈开来,满眼都是或浓或淡的蓝色,让人仿佛置身精灵的世界,如梦似幻。

Jodhpur is blue in color. When looked down from the dangerous terrains to the North of the Mehrgarh Castle which overlooks the Northern part of the old city of Jodhpur, one sees a crowd of houses, high and low, laid out in open view. The eyes fill with blue color, lighter shade here, darker shades there; and give a feeling as if a person is staring into a fairy world in a dream of fantasy.

乌代普尔则是白色的,整个城市依皮丘拉湖而建,犹如沙漠边缘的一粒璀璨珍珠,无论是湖上的皇宫酒店和庙宇,还是湖边的宫殿和民居,不管是大理石建筑还是普通砖瓦房,白色的建筑在蓝色湖水和绿色树木的映衬下,尽显优雅和浪漫,无怪乎乌代普尔成为印度最受欢迎的蜜月旅行之地。

Udaipur on the other hand is white in color. The entire city is constructed around the Pichola Lake and looks like a grain of bright pearl on the edge of the desert. Regardless of whether it is the Palace Hotel and temples on the lake or the palaces and houses on the edges of the lake; regardless of whether the building constructed with marble or is made of brick; when one views out, he only sees white buildings set in the backdrop of blue lakes and green trees. This sight is full of elegance and romance and it is no wonder that Udaipur is one of India’s most popular honeymoon destinations.

从乌代普尔一路向西,金碧辉煌的杰斯梅尔古堡矗立在塔尔沙漠的最深处。在大漠夕阳下眺望,地平线上那一抹金黄如此惊艳,这座仿佛黄金铸就的城堡犹如海市蜃楼般在沙漠暑热的蒸腾下跳动,吸引你不由自主地走近它、膜拜它……

West of Udaipur, lies the Jaisalmer castle. Resplendent and magnificent with a glitter of gold and jade, it stands in the depths of the bosom of the Thar Desert. Looking out over the desert sunset, the horizon looks as amazing as it has been touched by gold. The castle looks like as if it has been cast with molten gold and it looks like it is moving up and down like a mirage due to the transpiration of summer heat of the desert. It attracts you towards itself and makes you want to worship it.

一城一色各有来历  One city one color and many different origins

历史上,拉贾斯坦邦分为数十个土邦国,作为土邦国的统治者——土邦王在自己的领地上拥有至高的权威,他的个人好恶往往会影响整个城市的色调。这种城市的色调沿袭至今,渐渐演变成了传统的一部分或是民众的审美观。在拉贾斯坦的土地上,每座城市瑰丽色彩背后都有一段独特的故事。

Historically, the state of Rajasthan was divided into dozens of the princely states. As the ruler of the princely state, the kings of these states were invested with the highest authority in their own territory and their personal likes and dislikes often influenced the color tone of the whole city. The hues and colors chosen by these kings have continued till date and gradually evolved into a part of the local tradition and became a part of the residents’ aesthetic view. In the land of Rajasthan, the magnificent and resplendent colors of each city have a unique story behind them.

据说斋普尔“粉色之城”的传统起源于大约150年前。英殖民时期的1876年,维多利亚女王和威尔士亲王到访斋普尔,土邦王拉姆·辛格听说亲王偏爱粉红色,便下令把整座城市涂成了粉红色。亲王果然对这座粉红色的城市啧啧称奇,喜爱有加,而且在他后来加冕为英王爱德华七世后,依然对粉色的斋普尔津津乐道,给予其很多优惠。这座城市从那时起一直保持着粉色的外观,当地民众在盖新房时也都喜欢涂成粉色。

It is said that the traditional origin of the “pink city” of Jaipur dates back to about 150 years ago. In the year 1876, during the British colonial period, Queen Victoria and Prince of Wales paid a visit to Jaipur. The king of the princely state, Ram Singh heard of the Prince of Wales’ liking for the pink color and gave an order that the whole city be painted pink. The Prince, as expected, was amazed with this pink city and fell in love with it. Moreover, when he was crowned as Edward VII, the King of England, he continued to take great delight at Jaipur and granted many concessions to this vassal state. This city has since then, has maintained a pink appearance all through. The locals also like to paint their hoses in pink whenever a new house is built.

关于焦特布尔的房子为什么多为蓝色还存在一些争论。一种说法是蓝色代表着印度种姓制度中的最高种姓婆罗门。据说焦特布尔古城区的婆罗门家庭最早把自己居住的房屋涂成蓝色以显示高贵的身份。后来,随着印度从法律层面废除种姓制度,一些非婆罗门种姓家庭也开始把自己的房屋涂成蓝色,显得更有面子,再后来就逐渐演变成满城皆是蓝色。还有一种说法认为焦特布尔的民居曾经饱受白蚁的侵扰,人们发现在刷房的涂料中加入蓝色的硫酸铜对防治白蚁很有效,于是这里的居民区就逐渐变成了蓝色的“海洋”。

There are still some controversies about why so many of the houses Jodhpur are painted blue. One of the explanations is that the color blue represents the Brahmins who make up the highest level in the caste system in India. It is said that Brahmin families in the old quarter of the city first started painting their houses painted blue to differentiate them from the others and make obvious their high status. Later, when the Indian government passed laws to abolish the caste system, some of the non Brahmin families also began to paint their houses blue displaying their make –believe high status. Later, gradually the whole city began choosing blue color to paint their houses. There is another explanation that is of the opinion that, the residents of Jodhpur’s houses had a major issue with termite infestations in the past. One of the effective solutions found for termite prevention and control was to add copper sulfate to the blue paint before dabbing the paint on the external walls of the house. Thus the city’s residential areas gradually turned into an “ocean of blue”.

乌代普尔被称为白色之城主要是因为这里的王宫等一些主要建筑都是用白色大理石建造,王宫周边及皮丘拉湖沿岸的民居和庙宇也基本都粉刷成白色。最引人瞩目的是湖中央纯白色的“湖上王宫”酒店,据说这是18世纪时土邦王为心爱的女人修建的夏宫,后来王位继承者将其改造成为世界顶级的奢华酒店。相传英国女王、美国第一夫人以及《乱世佳人》的主演费雯丽都曾在此留下芳踪。007系列电影《八爪女》也曾将这里作为拍摄地,让乌代普尔愈发声名远播。在蓝天白云的映衬下,碧水中的白色宫殿犹如爱情童话中的城堡,与另一个爱情神话——白色的泰姬陵跨越时间和空间遥遥相望,尽显印度人的浪漫情怀。

Udaipur is known as the white city is mainly because some of the main buildings here, including the palace, were built with white marble. The houses of the residents and temples surrounding the palace and along the banks of the Pichola Lake are also mostly painted white. The most striking aspect of this whole scene is the “Pure White Lake Palace Hotel” laid out in the center of the lake. This hotel is said to be the summer palace built by the local king for his beloved woman in the eighteenth Century. His successors to the throne later transformed the hotel into one of the world’s top luxury hotels. According to legend, the queen of England, the first lady of the United States and Vivien Leigh, the famous star of the movie “Gone with the wind” have all left their traces at this hotel. The 007 series movie “Octopussy” was also supposed to have been shot here and propelled the fame of Udaipur worldwide. Silhouetted against the blue sky and white clouds, the white palace housed in between the clear waters looks like a castle set in a fairy tale of love. Another myth of love — the white colored Taj Mahal stares across time and space at a distance, in a display of romantic feelings of Indians.

杰斯梅尔城堡建于12世纪,城堡附近曾经是古代驼队的驿站,来自阿拉伯国家的商队带来香料、丝绸和干果在这里歇息或交易,并逐渐发展成为印度西部的重要贸易中心,这条商道也曾是古代丝绸之路的一条重要支线。城堡的金色主要来自于附近盛产的黄砂岩,整座城堡从城墙到宫殿和民居都是以黄砂岩为建筑材料,在漫漫黄沙的映衬和阳光的照耀下呈现出一片金黄,使得城堡在古朴苍凉中更增宏伟气势。经过千百年历史的沉淀,那些磨平棱角的黄砂岩并没有显得斑驳,反而多了一分温润。

The Jaisalmer castle was built in twelfth Century. There used to be an old inn near the ancient castle where camel caravans stopped to water camels. Companies of traveling merchants from Arabian countries would trade here in spices, silk and dried fruits and this place gradually became an important trade center in Western India. This road was also an important branch of the ancient Silk Road. The golden color of the castle mainly comes from the rich yellow sandstone in the vicinity and the entire castle from the walls to the palace and the houses all make use of yellow sandstone as their building material. The slow moving sand dunes reflect the sun’s rays and the sun shines on them creating a layer of golden color; against this backdrop, the magnificence of the castle looks like it has been contrasted with an ancient desolation. Filtered through thousands of years of history, the smooth edges and corners of the yellow sandstone did not appear mottled, but seem as if they have covered themselves with another layer of warmth.

城堡中的神庙和宫殿到处可见精细的雕刻和图案。记者参观一座庙宇时恰好赶上工匠在修缮,工匠们介绍,古时候修建“金色之城”时使用的金黄色颜料来历非凡。据说来自牛尿,首先要让牛吃上几个月的芒果叶子,这样牛尿就会变黄,把牛尿收集到容器里,然后放在太阳下晾晒并用秘法加工,就会得到带有鲜亮光泽的金黄颜料。牛在印度教文化中是神的化身,把这种从牛身体里酿造出的金黄颜料勾勒在神像上,也使其更具神力。这种闪着金光的黄色被艺术家称为“印度黄”。“可惜,因为这种方法对牛的健康不利,近代被宣布为非法,禁止使用。现在只能用化学颜料代替了。”一位工匠不无遗憾地说。

Everywhere in the temples and palaces of the castle, one can see fine and intricate carvings in various patterns and designs. When the reporter visited a temple, he was fortunate to witness the work of the artisans engaged in renovation of the place. The craftsmen explained to him that in the ancient times, while building the “golden city”, the golden yellow pigment was obtained by an extraordinary method. It is said that the pigment was obtained from cow urine. The cattle were first made to eat mango leaves for a few months. This made their urine turn yellow; this urine was then collected in a container and put out in the bright sun to cure. The sediment was then processed using a secret formula and to get the golden pigment which had a bright luster. In the Hindu culture, cattle are the incarnation of God and this golden paint brewed from the liquids that came from the body of a cow is used to outline the idol to make it more divine and powerful. This shining golden yellow is called “India yellow” by some artists. “Unfortunately, since this method was found responsible for adverse health of the cattle, it has been declared illegal in our generation and is prohibited from usage. Nowadays, chemical pigments have replaced the cow urine brewed paint” a workman ruefully said.

男人的帽子和女人的纱丽 The head wear of men and the saris of women

再漂亮的风景也需要有人的陪衬才能不失其灵动,拉贾斯坦邦各个“好色”的城市也因为当地人们多姿多彩的服饰而更加迷人。相比印度其他地方,拉贾斯坦的妇女似乎更加钟爱纱丽这种传统服装。纱丽是一款五六米长、一米多宽的布料,巧妙地缠绕在女性身体上,身着纱丽的妇女走起来就是一道艳丽婀娜的风景线。在拉贾斯坦的路上经常能够见到三五成群头上顶着罐子的女子,她们身着多姿多彩的纱丽和披肩,绝无撞衫。

Any beautiful scenery needs people to go along with it, only then does it not lose its flexibility. Each of “colorful” Rajasthan’s cities is made more mesmerizing by the variety of colors that the local people like to dress themselves in. Compared to other parts of India, it seems that the women of Rajasthan love to dress up in saris, the traditional dress of Indian women. Sari is a 5 to 6 meters long and one meter wide piece of cloth. When it is cleverly wrapped around a woman’s body and the woman walks towards you, the whole picture looks like a gorgeous and graceful part of the scenery. While one is on the road in Rajasthan, one can often encounters small groups 3 to 5 women balancing earthen pots on the top of their of heads dressed in colorful saris and shawls and absolutely not missing a shirt.

当地的男士们服装普通,却在帽子上争奇斗艳。拉贾斯坦男士的帽子叫做帕格力,白色、粉色、藏红花色、蓝色等都是男士们钟爱的帕格力颜色,参加庆典的时候还会戴彩色的帕格力。其实帕格力就像小号的纱丽,是一条2米长,20厘米宽的布料,同样需要巧妙而娴熟的手法才能将它紧紧地盘成一顶帽子戴在头上,而且不同的手法编出来的帽子也是多种形态。

The clothing styles of local men are quite ordinary but their head dresses compete with each other for beauty. The head dress that Rajasthan men wear is called Pagree. White, pink, saffron, blue are all the favorite colors of male Pagrees and when they attend celebrations and festivals, they even have a Pagree that is multi- colored. In fact, a Pagree is just like a small sized sari, a 2 meter long, 20 cm wide piece of cloth that need a clever and skillful approach to tie. It is worn tightly to sit on the head like a hat and there are different styles of tying a Pagree with each style giving it a distinct shape and form.

print
Share now